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Vanilla 1.1.5a is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.

    • CommentAuthorjay rich
    • CommentTimeApr 5th 2009
    ive bulit the seal carb and my own intake for the a.r. engine and well it floods out or the gas tank height is to high or low has any one had this carb work ok or can i ask for a design change ive tried two so far ....jay
    • CommentAuthorkamran
    • CommentTimeApr 8th 2009 edited
    Has anyone ever used Walbro carb?
    Jay.....On your gas tank level....I have had good luck by making the top level of the tank when full , be 1/16" below the center of your needle valve.....Any lower and your fuel can start to flow, and then you lose control of the fuel flow.....You end up flooding your engine.....If you want, I will send you the information on making one of my carbs.....It is a single needle valve with a air bleed.....It is made so you can change the orfice very easy......Dale
    • CommentAuthorjay rich
    • CommentTimeApr 10th 2009
    sound good dale and yes send me the cab info i can try it out and see what happens but i got a good one for all of us the a.r engine well not running and ive tried all the tricks and found the problem but its a quick fix then the same deal its in the contactor ive tried all know material and it will run ok and i pack it up for the nite next day same problem not running ive found out in the cylinder the spark is not as hot as it was ive done coil testing and cap testing and tried swap outs as in coils and caps i made from a old motor brush a contattor it worked till the next day and ideas i am all out ....jay
    Jay.....Your information is on the way......Dale...Any questions, Please ask.......
    • CommentAuthorjay rich
    • CommentTimeApr 11th 2009
    thanks dale well i got her going i found alot of vale seal leaks on the top of the heads i sealed them and still not a real run like a loggy run ive been message around with some 3/32 tungston rod for spark plug electrodes the work but ive found the engine will slam stop like one cylinder is fireing at t.d.c. so i retimed the spark still a slam once in a while the engine will want to speed up in r.p.m.s but then a slam afeect and down to a idle and a slow stop i have the engine running on a bubble system style carb and some air hole to let in air just to get it to run so i can find and kill the gremiln who is casuing me to get a headache and my next ? is i am useing a niehoff 6 volt coil and i am useing a ac to dc adaptor the output voltage is 6 volts at 800ma sould i be useing more amps to fire the plugs and how may amps i was thinking of not going over 2.5 amps
    I am not shure of your setup but think about this.

    As the RPM's go up, so does the demand on your ignition system. On a "real" ignition my demand was 1 amp per 1000 rpm for a V8. I cant speak the actual demand you have but with 4 cylinders I would guess that you would need 1/2 amp per 1000 RPM. As the demand on your supply excedes it's rated output (.8 amp) the voltage will start to go down and your spark will start to weaken.

    Just for grins, hook a volt meter to the point where the ignition is hooked up and run the engine. As the motor revs up take a look at the volt meter and see what the voltage is doing. That will tell you the real story. If it drops more than 10 or 15% you might want to look for another supply or make the jump to 12 volt.

    Of course none of this will solve your carb problems.
    • CommentAuthorjay rich
    • CommentTimeApr 12th 2009
    thats the trick steve i cant even get the engine to turn over and stay running i will try agin today i did get a ac adaptor with a range from 6 to 12 volt at 2.5 amps i only have 2 cylinders i will do the voltage test and see where it is at and steve do you think that the cap is going bad or loseing power the cap i am useing is for a tecumseh engine part number 30548b i know from working on these engines most of them used this cap and ran for many years on it at this point i will try anything to get it to run thanks alot to all of you guys ....jay
    • CommentAuthordavid
    • CommentTimeApr 12th 2009
    I would think true RMS ignition current would be constant and possibly drop off at highest speeds. The coil is only on for the dwell angle for each cylinder. Regardless of RPM the angle is the same so if RPM double the on time of the coil is half but twice as many sparks, ending up constant. Adding cylinder would add to coil on dwell angle and increase the current.
    At the highest speeds the coils inductance prevents it from fully magnetizing the core and current should drop.
    This was an MSD ignition and that is the way they are rated. An engine at 1000 rpms would spark 1000 * 8 / 2 or 4000 times per second. If increased to 6000 rpm the coil would have to "charge" 24,000 times per minute. I would think the RMS of the charge current (load at the battery) would increase.

    Cant say for sure. How about a report after you do your voltage study!!

    If your voltage is stable, see if you could measure the current. I would be curious to see the relationship of the RPM and the amps. See if the amps change as the RPM's increase.
    • CommentAuthorjay rich
    • CommentTimeApr 13th 2009
    well could not get it to fire at all i have benn redesigning the spark pulgs i found out the spark in the cylinder hed was very short and a small blue line but the votage report is in and the meter says before points close 6.0 volts when points close voltage is 5.22 i hope to get the engine running to do a run test my next ? is if the cap is bad you wont have spark ? rite or is the small amount of spark getting blowen out like a small candle flame ?
    oh yes i would like to know on how i can make a pulse plug ->link<-
    Did you check the points? Are you using a condenser to keep the points from failing prematurely?
    • CommentAuthorjay rich
    • CommentTimeApr 14th 2009
    yep check the points and i am useing a small engine condenser most of tonite i will be try to get the engine to fire rite so i can at least get a base line reading on the voltage draw .... i can come pare my engine to the herc same bore and stroke and i do have a exciter coil can this coil run on 6 volts at 2.5 amps i would like to ask before i nuke that coil ....jay
    • CommentAuthordavid
    • CommentTimeApr 14th 2009
    My mind was set on simple ignition, points, capacitor and coil. With capacitor discharge ignition I would agree that current increases linearly with RPM.
    According to MJN that coil is good from 3.6 to 12 volts
    • CommentAuthorjay rich
    • CommentTimeApr 16th 2009
    will the 2.5 amps hurt the coil? and i think i am getting closer to getting the engine to run i redesigned the plugs agian and now i am going to re make the rotor cam the one that opens and closes the points i am at 75 degress for the one that had the engine running i am going to try 74 and 76 and 77 degress the reason the engine ran before but i noticed one in a while as it runs cylinder one or two would have a hammer affect and bring rpms way down my guess is the engeine broke in and the timeing went out just enough ....jay
    The coil is an electrical load and will draw a specific amout of amps at a specific voltage. The idea is to have a power supply that can deliver that amount of amps or more than the coil requires.
    • CommentAuthorjay rich
    • CommentTimeApr 17th 2009 edited
    ahh ok sorry guys my electricial stinks well besides going nuts all is well i have a redesigned spark plug and it works great i know this because i put in my old trusty side winder engine the first i.c engine i bulid i got to say you can throw any design in to that little guy but i know i have good spark i get blue all day long and by the way the new design is a mess the way this plug works is there is a center core of 0.047 music wire next there is a sub insulator tube this goes in the out side insulator is acrlic and drilled out on the bottom to 0.113 next there is a glass tip and it all slides together and oh yes a ground strap i used a cap lead to make this next i love this part use locktite 495 glue and glue it up it works and its fun when you glue your thumb to your own bench and the power supply i have is 6 volts@2.5 amps i also have one a 12 volts @2.5 amp i would like to thank all of you guys for the help it means alot to me well i had it running at one point and i hope to get it running agian i am going to try to bulid dales carb after i get it to run ....jay
    • CommentAuthorjay rich
    • CommentTimeApr 17th 2009 edited
    i have a weird ? ive noticed today a problem i was going to test run the a.r engine i was useing just a vapor style intake manfold basicaly a cup of gas with to holes in the top and a hose going to the intake and two small pinhole in the intake to give it air as i turned the engine over and pluged the air hole the cup was sparying gas out as you choke the air off i never had this happen before i went over the engine to see if the intake valves where opening at the wrong time nope so i took off the intake manifold and did a vacume test on the intakes of both cylinder my vacume test is my finger as i run the dril to see if i have pull in the intake and i do so does any one eles got a clue ?