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Vanilla 1.1.5a is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.

  1.  
    As a new member, I would like to say how awesome you guys are to have the patience and talent to build these works of art! I am a CNC machinist with 20 yrs experience and fell in love with these little engines. I knew I had to have one so I talked with Margeret Shores, a very sweet lady, and ordered the prints to the "Little Angel". Its been about two months and I have got the engine together but can't get even a "sputter" out of her. I purchased the complete CDI unit and Hall Sensor from Roy Scholl, another nice person. Anyway, as I was saying, I never claimed to be a mechanic or electrician and am a little worried if I have done something wrong..I have a very light spring on my intake and can see it move when I spin her over, I've got spark on TDC, and not too sure about the timing...140 deg after TDC on the combustion stroke , exhaust open and then exhaust close at 10 deg past BDC? Can some one help? I sure would appreciate any help what so ever, this being my first engine. I'm not going to let it get me down, I've got the book "Two Shop Masters" on its way and hope to start the "odds and ends" by Philip Duclos maybe this weekend.

    Thanks to all of you,
    Kevin Murrell
    murrellkd@yahoo.com
  2.  
    Thank you for all your help and wish everyone the best on their projects!!
  3.  
    Ken,
    You may have mistyped the exhaust valve closing. The exhaust valve should remain open from 140 degrees after combustion begins to TDC. Other things to look for:
    Do you have reasonable compression?
    Is your engine getting fuel from the mixer?
    Have you tried priming the engine with a few drops of fuel?
    Do your valves both seat well?
    Is the intake valve guide and valve stem fitted well enough so there is no binding of the stem on the intake stroke?

    The intake valve spring should be light, but still heavy enough to close and hold the intake valve shut. The intake valve will normally make a "buzzing" noise when cranking the engine as the valve vibrates against the seat. Oil the valve guides initially with a ligth lubricant like kerosene or fuel oil until they are worn in.

    You have reached the fun part....Getting it to run. Now go have some fun!

    jeff
  4.  
    Jeff,

    No, I did't mistype. I think you helped me out a bunch! Thanks!! I'll get to making a new cam this weekend. I said I wasn't sure on the timing... As for my compression, I think its good. The valves seem to be seated well when I attach a hose and blow. And as for the carb...I've seen Coleman fuel run out the exhaust (flooding) a couple of times but have Not tried to prime. How could a "dummy" do this?

    Thanks again for your time and info. I can't tell you how appreciative I am! And the responce time was quick!

    Kevin
  5.  
    Kevin,

    We would love to see pictures of your CNC version when its up and running.
    Sure wish I still worked in the machine shop with all thouse CNC machines waiting to bang out parts for me.... :)
    I like the little CNC mills that have come out lately.

    Jan
  6.  
    Jan,

    I'll try to get some pictures , running or not. Even though most of our machines are CNC, a lot of my engine was made on a manual lathe and mill. The flywheels we a lot easier on our 4 axis lathe. I was very pleased after getting it together, just wish I could get it to run.


    Jeff,

    I talked to another guy locally and he said my timing is off...I had the degree wheel on the non-governed flywheel, which he said is wrong and the "140 deg after TDC" is where the pointer needs to be, not an actual "140 deg" after TDC. Its hard to understand...
    What about that priming ? And I'll oil the valve guides. Thanks.

    Kevin
  7.  
    Kevin,

    Have you ever got this fixed? I am having the same problem. I have tried just about everything, and wanted to know what you have figured out.

    Thanks,
    J.R.
  8.  
    Hi Kevin, I to have just finished Little Angel but at twice drawing size ie 1" bore and 1" stroke and had problems gatting it started. I found a web site which was very helpfull (Jan Ridders) I used his carburator and used a small compressor to test for valve and head leaks I olso put 2 piston rings on the piston the lower ring I changed to an O ring a tip I found on the HMEM web site. I olso used Jans method to test compression.I first got my engine to fire on a two stroke mixture of 1 part two stroke oil and four parts petrol which I had used on another two stroke engine, the Atom Minor.My engine can now run on Colmans fuel plus a little oil .Your engine must be very free running use an electric motor to run it in if need be.
    Hope this will help
    Donald Williamson
    S.W. Scotland
  9.  
    Kevin.....Hello....,A easy thing to try is to install a glow plug in the engine, get some glow fuel and try to start up the engine on glow.....This does away with ignition, and the timing of the spark......I have started up a few engines on glow , and the glow fuel seems to be stronger running and gives you a better chance to get the engine started........If it does start up, it gives you the chance to get some run time on the engine, and gives the engine a chance to break in .......If it starts, go ahead and run it a while to get some time on it........If it does not start up, make sure that your intake valve spring is VERY light........Dale Detrich