Gallery

Dale Detrich Attica, OH djdtrh@cros.net

Plumbing T vertical, 0.75 bore X 0.625 stroke 6/25/2007 - 2/15/2008

The block is a cast brass 3/4" plumbing "T"......The engine will be a 3/4" bore X 5/8" stroke (not much room for a longer stroke).......It will have my type of fan/flywheel. open gearing for the cam, pushrod operated over head valves.....It will have a cantilever crank, with the front half for the rod, and the second (driven ) half to drive the cam shaft gearing........The name of the engine will be the BRASS MODEL "T"

2/15/2008
The engine is now assembled, wired, and mounted on it's box......I am using a MJN CD ignition, 12VDC to 6VDC Regulator, and MJN hall effect pickup....The engine is running at this time, with plenty of oil leaks.......I will be working on the oil leaks starting tomorrow......The engine is at the point of being able to start it with a pull rope, so the final work should not be too bad...

3/8/2008 The "Brass model T" engine is really working out good....It is a good starting engine , and after it warms up, is getting close to 5,000 R.P.M.....I have bearings , plugs , wire (15,000volt) for the engine...It should be pretty tough because the crank. is supported by four ball bearings, and a brass bushing....Compression is getting to be pretty high for only a 5/8" stroke engine...(Or I may be getting better making rings)....I am asking $30.00 for the plan set of thirty seven pages of drawings, and written information, plus the picture CD which has 980 pictures, (most pictures have written notes of points of interest).

VIDEO (Windows media file).

3/25/2008
Just a short email to let you know what is going on with the "T" engine......I have the oil leaks almost sealed up, which is hard to do with a sealed crankcase.......The sealed crankcase builds up pressure , and makes it hard to keep the oil where it should......I ordered a laser non -contact tachometer, which arrived two days ago.....So with my new toy I went down to the shop (basement), fired up the "T" engine and got it warmed up and did a high speed run , and it checked out to be 6200 RPM.....Right now that is near the top speed of the engine....The carb that I called for is now out of production, so that put me in a "bit" of a bind....I have ordered a new carb, and am now adapting it to the engine.......I would like to see the engine go to 7000, and it should make it with more tuning......The engine has proven to be a better engine than I had figured it would.....You just have to remember to give it a bit of oil every now and then....I am using 5w-40 full synthic , which is hard to get off once the part is soaked up with it.....I am using a "lost oil" system on the "T" right now......I am now thinking about putting a oil tank and a two check valves system and use the pressure pulses from the engine to circulate the oil......The little "T" engine is pretty tough......I have been running the crap out of the engine, and it is holding up real well........

4/2/2008

.......I thought that I should a picture of the tach and "the Brass t", before I blow it up......Dale........ 6339 RPM

4/4/2008
just a small bit of information about the T engine....I am not sure that you heard that OSMax quit making the carb. that I used on the T.........So I had a few minutes of panic........So I went shopping for a new carb.....Had to make the new carb. to head pipe, and the air horn....So I fit things up, and tried to run the engine........It took a few minutes of adjustment on the new carb. and now the engine is running good, and has a perfect cold engine start....( the osmax) was hard to cold start....The last high speed test run the "T" turned 6500+ rpm......I think that I will try for 7000 RPM , that should be enough speed for any one........Every thing seems to be the same as When I assembled the engine.......See you there......Dale

finishing details....

The high voltage wire

The brass post which supports the DEANS PLUG, and carries the system ground to the engine block, through the copper strap.....

The top of the box has stud mounting for the engine and fuel tank....
It is also made so that when you take the top off, you do not have to unhook anything...

Top view of the engine box...........you can see the stud mounts, the brass post and the other hole on the opposite of the brass tube....This is the guide for the high voltage (spark plug lead) which plugs into the ignition board........

Brass post is supporting the Deans plug (for the hall effect" pick up.......The post also carries the system ground to the engine through the small copper strap........

Inside of box, showing the "MJN STUFF" and my wiring .........

Charging post and on / off switch

2/4/2008

I am working on the fuel tank....It will be about one inch longer than shown....If I get anything done the next few days, I should be in start up by the end of the week...The engine looks like it is ready to run, and we will find out at start up time....

6/25/2007

Working on the "block"

Each crank half will have two bearings

Front crank half

Working on the cylinder......12L14 material

Working on the bearing cups.......

Bearing cups

Checking crank line up with a straight shaft

Bearing cups with the oil control "O" ring in place

Working on the crank

Front half of the crank with the pin silver soldered into place

Picture of split crank

Starting rope pulley

Plug for the flywheel

Counter sinking for the oil control "O" ring......

Flywheel rim

Head.......Same as my horz. twin engine

Trying the fit of the parts.......

Cylinder with oil control "O" ring.........

Center hub of fanwheel..........

Material for fan blades

Hub and ring

Pressed together fan assembly

After soldering the blades to the hub, I am turning the OD of the blades tapered into the ID of the ring....

After pressing the blades into the rim, I am cutting the blades down to the width of the rim......Note that I am running in reverse, with the cutter upside down as not to catch the blade edges.........

Fanwheel parts

More pictures to follow as work progresses......

Click to go to a page Just for RINGS from Dale

11/8/2007

11/11/2007

11/18/2007

I am waiting for a ignition from MJN, and I need to make and finish a engine box ( like the others) and then see if it will run..........It should run OK.....I still need to clean and polish everything, and a lots of fine points to work out.......I will let you know how start up works out...........Dale

11/24/2007
I now have the brass"T" engine to the point where I can do some detail work (polish the brass).......