5/8/2003 I set up the cylinder casting in the lathe
and was lucky enough to have the top flange fit nicely in between the
jaws of my 3 jaw chuck. once I had it in on that end I moved a tool bit
in close on the other end turn the chuck by hand a tweak it in close
with a brass jewelers hammer. As there was nothing on the end to support
it running true I carefully turned the flange a few thousandths at a
time until it was down to final Dia. and set up my steady rest to
support it while I turned the face of the flange, faced the end and
started to boring the cylinder jacket. I am now stuck as my boring bar
is 1/32 inch to short to complete the job and I am afraid to remove it
from the machine as I will probably have a tough time getting it back to
square. So I am on a quest to find a 3/8 boring bar about 6 or 7 inches
long. I took two photo's of the set up. one stationary and one turning,
you can see from the turning picture, the casting is running very true.
although it was not turning anywhere as fast as the photo implies.
I couldn't get my hands on a boring bar
like i wanted , but grabed up the next best thing i could find, a 3/8
Carbide glass drill. it reached beyond
what i needed and produced a very clean
smooth bore.
Once the bore was finished i removed the
casting and made up a brass plug to support the end while i cleaned up
the base flange and a bit of the neck. after that i used a flat smooth
file to replace the radious that was removed while cleaning up the neck.
Being that didn't think i could flip the
casting around and hold it in the three jaw chuck accurately enough to
face the top end , I clamped it to the mill table with the engine table
top and used my fly cutter to bring the cylinder casting down to final
height.
Now the trick will be to clamp the engine
table top to the mill table, indicate in the hole in the cylinder
mounting pad, clamp the cylinder in and bore the top opening in the
casting, once this is done i can rework the plug used to center the
engine table on the rotory table to drill and tap the holes in the
mounting pad and use the reworked plug to center the cylinder casting on
the rotory table to drill the mated holes to attach the cylinder to the
engine table.
5/11/2003 With the top of the cylinder cut square, i set to boring the the cylinder sleeve opening in the cylinder.
with that done i there is only one Dia. left
to cut in the cylinder and it will have to wait untill i can get a
longer boring bar. On with the show! Next i set to drilling the holes
in the cylinder flange to match the base table. In case the table was
not perfectly square at the time i drilled and tapped my holes, i ground
a 2-56 bolt to a point , a little magic marker on the flange, put them
together sqaured them up and screwed my sharpend 2-56 into a few holes
to give me a good mark to align to.
With the flange drilled i mounted the
cylinder to the table and set about cleaning uip and bringing the pump
mount pad and bracket mount pad down to size.
Once it was down to size i layed out and
drilled the pump mount holes and water jacket inlet.
5/12/2003
Next was the Pivot Block casting. This was the toughest peice yet,
mostly because of the lack of information in the prints and i noticed if
i did the math on the Pivot Shaft, Pivot Blocks and the Pivot casting on
the prints the numbers all came out different! There was a bit of
searching into related parts and crossrefrencing to establish what
correct measurments were. I had to figure out the hieght off the
cylinder top and the offset of the pivot shaft and make the pivot
casting and blocks to meet that and scraped for the most part the rest
that was on the print. If anyone else has built one of these, i would
like to hear if you had this trouble as well.
The prints called out a rib with
undetermined hieght and the casting rib went all the way and i had to
mill it out and guess an apropriate hieght.
Next the slot was cut to hold the pivot
blocks and the pivot blocks were milled out of a solid peice and then
cut in half later.
Once this was done i cut the two pivot
blocks apart and lokated my bolt placement. I then spoted them with a
centerdrill , placed the block on and centerdrilled and drilled thru the
blocks and into casting to ensure perfect match when finaly assembled.
Once the tap drill had been drilled thru, i removed the block and tapped
the casting, then replaced the block and drilled the block for bolt
clearence.
With the pivot blocks bolted securely to the
casting the assembly was squred up in the vise and the pivot pin holes
were drilled and reamed in one shot to ensure they were on center with
each other.
Now came the hard part as the dimentions for
the bolt holes to secure the pivot assembly to the the cylinder didn't
match the the casting dimentions and since there were no dinentions
given for where to mount the pivot assembly. I had to figure out where
the pivot centerline should be in relation to all the parts connecting
to it and figure out how to ensure it wound up there. This was a pain!
but i finaly divised a very long drawn out process that would only
ensure at best plus or minus about ten thousandths of an inch and
decided that was going to have to be close enough. Once i did the holes
where drilled and tapped in the cylinder flange. i then blacked the
flange with a marker and scribed the out line, as the flange was over
sized almost .200. After it was scribed the pivot assembly was removed
and the flange was milled and filed to meet the pivot assembly profile.
My camera batteries needed recharging , so i didn't get any pictures of
the pivot shaft being made, but it is just a simple steal shaft steped
down on the ends to fit the Pivot bearing blocks. I should also mention
that i changed the pivot block oiler holes a bit and will in the end
install small brass oil cups. As the originals had them. The prints only
call for a #68 drilled hole to be counter sunk about .030 at the
opening.
Next i got to the Beam. Camera Batteries
still charging. This was another small problem with the castings. All
the holes are stepped off to the right dimentions, but partly due to
some mismatch in the castings and partly due to design or shrinkage the
bolt mounting pads for the power piston linkage were off from the bolt
moles more then i would have liked and i had to recheck all my
calculations to see if i had made an error but all seems perfect in that
respect. You can see the off set to the pads and holes, but in the
picture taken from right above with a bolt in one hole the holes are
directly in line with the center of the cylinder as it should be and all
the other holes are in their proper placement in relation to pivot, ECT.
It looks a little out of proportion due to the camera perspective, but
all is well.
Next i started on the flywheel. Now if
anyone might be wondering what the largest Dia. that can be turned on a
sherline lathe with the riser installed? This is it, right here!
At 4.300 the carage will go under the wheel
but at it's raw material Diameter it would not and i had to cut it down
close to finish Dia. a 1/4 of an inch at a time to get across the width
of the flywheel. I turned everthing i could in one mounting. I knocked
it around a bit with a brass jewelers hammer to get it as true as
possible and faced the center hub and outer rim, turned the outer
Diameter to finished size, added the rim detail, turned the Hub Dia. and
drilled and bored the shaft hole all in one shot to ensure everything
was concentric. I then flipped it around faced and turned the Hub Dia.,
outer rim and added the rim detail to the other side. All that is left
is to drill and tap the set screw hole and the flywheel is done.
Here is a shot of the work all together so
far.
